Mentaiko Butter Corn Ramen
Mentaiko is what happens when pollock roe gets marinated in chili and salt until it becomes this spicy, briny, intensely umami thing that Japanese people put on everything because it makes everything better. When you combine it with butter, you get this collision of creamy richness and oceanic funk that should not work but absolutely does, like discovering that two people who seem completely incompatible are actually perfect together. The corn adds sweetness that balances all that salinity and richness, and when it is all piled on top of hot ramen noodles in creamy broth, the butter melts and the mentaiko starts to break apart and you get this sauce situation that coats everything in pure indulgence. This is Hokkaido comfort food at its finest, the kind of bowl that feels like a warm hug from someone who really knows how to cook.
Roe splits pink and bright—butter melts like winter sun—corn whispers of soil.
Let Me Tell You...
The first time I tried mentaiko was at a convenience store in Sapporo at three in the morning, jet-lagged and hungry and willing to try anything that looked remotely edible.
I grabbed this rice ball wrapped in plastic that had a pink filling I could not identify, took a bite, and immediately understood why Japanese convenience stores have a cult following.
The mentaiko was spicy and salty and fishy in the best possible way, with this slightly crunchy texture from the roe that popped against your teeth.
I went back and bought four more, standing there in the fluorescent lighting like some kind of mentaiko-addicted zombie.
The butter component is pure Hokkaido logic, where dairy farming is serious business and they put butter on everything with the confidence of people who know their dairy products are superior.
I started noticing it everywhere in Sapporo, butter melting on ramen, butter mixed with seafood, butter used with the kind of abandon that would make French chefs jealous.
When I combined mentaiko with butter for the first time, mixing them together into a paste, I created this rich, savory, oceanic compound butter that tasted like the sea decided to get fancy.
The corn came later when I was trying to cut through all that richness with something sweet and fresh.
Hokkaido corn is legendary, these massive ears with kernels so sweet they taste like candy, and when you char them slightly or just toss them in butter, they become the perfect counterpoint to aggressive flavors.
I started adding fresh or frozen corn to my mentaiko butter ramen, and suddenly the bowl had balance, had this sweet relief between bites of that intense roe and butter situation.
This bowl has become my ultimate comfort food, the thing I make when I need to feel taken care of or when the weather turns cold and I need something rich enough to justify putting on sweatpants and not leaving the house.
There is something deeply satisfying about food that is unapologetically indulgent, that does not pretend to be healthy or virtuous but just commits fully to being delicious.
Every time I make this, I think about that convenience store in Sapporo and how sometimes the best food discoveries happen when you are too tired to overthink things and just trust your hunger.
Ingredients
- 8 ounces dried ramen noodles (2 bricks, seasoning packets discarded)
- 3-4 ounces mentaiko (spicy pollock roe), membrane removed
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
- 1.5 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels
- 3 cups chicken or dashi stock
- 1/2 cup whole milk or heavy cream
- 2 tablespoons miso paste (white or yellow)
- 1 tablespoon soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon sake or mirin
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 3 scallions, thinly sliced (whites and greens separated)
- 1 sheet nori, cut into thin strips
- 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
- Black pepper, to taste
- Shichimi togarashi (Japanese seven-spice), for garnish
- Fresh shiso or basil leaves (optional)
Preparation
- Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the noodles.
- In a small bowl, mash together 2 tablespoons of softened butter with the mentaiko (membrane removed) until well combined into a paste. Set aside at room temperature.
- In a medium skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of butter over medium heat. Add the corn kernels and cook for 4-5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until slightly toasted and golden. Season with a pinch of salt and set aside.
- In a large pot, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter over medium heat. Add the minced garlic and scallion whites; cook for 1 minute until fragrant.
- Whisk the miso paste with about 1/2 cup of the stock in a small bowl until smooth. Add this to the pot along with the remaining stock, milk, soy sauce, and sake. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 5 minutes to let the flavors meld.
- Meanwhile, cook the ramen noodles according to package directions (usually 3-4 minutes). Drain and rinse briefly.
- Add the toasted corn to the broth and stir to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper if needed.
- Divide the cooked noodles among serving bowls. Ladle the hot corn-studded broth over the noodles.
- Top each bowl with a generous dollop of the mentaiko butter mixture, allowing it to melt into the hot broth. The heat will cause the mentaiko to break apart and create a creamy, speckled sauce.
- Garnish with scallion greens, nori strips, a drizzle of sesame oil, black pepper, and shichimi togarashi. Add shiso leaves if using.
- Serve immediately while hot, stirring the melting mentaiko butter into the broth as you eat. Add any optional toppings as desired.